Bibliography

Films/Videos

• Elizabeth I - the virgin queen.wmv (2012) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMKtWiDBGRI (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Elizabeth R part 1 (BBC 1971) the lion’s cub (2012) Directed by YouTube.
• Elizabeth R part 1 (BBC 1971) the lion’s cub (2012) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyeUxYW4-YA (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Elizabeth R part 2 (BBC 1971) the marriage game (2012) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSvPNhMS-Q4 (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Elizabeth R part 3 (BBC 1971) shadow in the sun (2012) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xk7GXR3hBKA (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Elizabeth R part 4 (BBC 1971) horrible conspiracies (2012) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MIy1alWkTc (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Elizabeth R part 5 (BBC 1971) the enterprise of England (2012) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeUCTi25bZo (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Elizabeth R part 6 (BBC 1971) sweet England’s pride (2012) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDK5kQMUVFU (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Flora Robson - fire over England - full movie - 1937 (2013) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhVQeJDbrnY (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Elizabeth I (2005) Directed by Tom Hooper [Miniseries]. .
• Elizabeth (1998) Directed by Shekhar Kapur USA: .
• [Shakespeare in love 1998] comedy movies full English - romance drama full HD 1080 (2015) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP-qeDTqZsk (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• The private lives of Elizabeth and Essex 1 (2010) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8Irm7lZ3DA (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• The private lives of Elizabeth and Essex 1 (2010) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8Irm7lZ3DA (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• The virgin queen [VOSE] 1955 (2013) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkM0qhGsh-E (Accessed: 24 October 2015).
• Tom Hardy as Robert Dudley - dirty and true (2012) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LvQYEO92CxU (Accessed: 24 October 2015).

Books

• Karim-Cooper, F. and Boundas, C. V. (2006) Cosmetics in Shakespearean and renaissance drama. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press.
• Mortimer, I. (2012) The time traveler’s guide to Elizabethan England. Random House.
• Place, S. and Madry, B. R. (1989) The art and science of professional makeup. Cengage Learning.

Internet Sources

• All about Rosacea (no date) Available at: http://www.rosacea.org/patients/allaboutrosacea.php (Accessed: 1 December 2015).
• BBC (2015) Your paintings - Queen Elizabeth I (’the Ditchley portrait'). Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/yourpaintings/paintings/queen-elizabeth-i-the-ditchley-portrait (Accessed: 18 October 2015).
• Bell, I. (1999) Elizabethan women and the poetry of courtship. 1st edn. Cambridge, U.K.: Cambridge University Press.
• Bess of HARDWICK (C. Shrewsbury) (no date) Available at: http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/Bios/BessofHardwick.htm (Accessed: 6 November 2015).
• Bess of Hardwick (no date) Available at: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/bess-of-hardwick.htm (Accessed: 6 November 2015).
• Choices, N. (2014) Rosacea - NHS choices. Available at: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Rosacea/Pages/Introduction.aspx (Accessed: 1 December 2015).
• Choices, N. (2014) Rosacea - symptoms - NHS choices. Available at: http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Rosacea/Pages/Symptoms.aspx (Accessed: 1 December 2015).
• Choices, N. (2015) Conjunctivitis - NHS choices. Available at: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Conjunctivitis-infective/Pages/Introduction.aspx (Accessed: 1 December 2015).
• Choices, N. (2015) Psoriasis - NHS choices. Available at: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Psoriasis/Pages/Introduction.aspx (Accessed: 1 December 2015).
• Cole, G. W. (2015) Freckles symptoms, causes, treatment - how do freckles develop?. Available at: http://www.medicinenet.com/freckles/page3.htm (Accessed: 9 December 2015).
• Davies, J. (no date) C16th makeups: Fire over England. Available at: http://www.themakeupgallery.info/period/c16/uk/elizabeth/fire.htm (Accessed: 8 December 2015).
• Davies, J. (no date) C16th makeups: The virgin queen. Available at: http://www.themakeupgallery.info/period/c16/uk/elizabeth/virginbd.htm (Accessed: 8 December 2015).
• Davies, J. (no date) Judi Dench in ‘Shakespeare in Love’ | Queen Elizabeth I | sixteenth-century Britain | period makeups. Available at: http://www.themakeupgallery.info/period/c16/uk/elizabeth/shakespearejd.htm (Accessed: 8 December 2015).
• Delzell, E. (no date) Makeup tips for skin with psoriasis | national psoriasis foundation. Available at: https://www.psoriasis.org/advance/make-up-tips-for-skin-with-psoriasis (Accessed: 1 December 2015).
• Elizabethan make-up, face, eyes, women, skin, beauty (no date) Available at: http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/Elizabethan-Make-up.html (Accessed: 6 November 2015).
• Elizabethan make-up (no date) Available at: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm (Accessed: 6 November 2015).
• History and Hour, A. (2013) Bess of Hardwick and Hardwick hall. Available at: http://www.historyinanhour.com/2013/07/11/bess-of-hardwick-and-hardwick-hall/ (Accessed: 6 November 2015).
• History of the queen’s house (2015) Available at: http://www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house/history/fact-files/beauty-in-the-17th-century (Accessed: 6 November 2015).
• Makeup for Rosacea (no date) Available at: http://www.rosacea.org/patients/skincare/makeuptips.php (Accessed: 1 December 2015).
• Mongello, M. (2006) Portraits of Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603), with commentary. Available at: http://www.marileecody.com/eliz1-images.html (Accessed: 18 October 2015).
• Queen Elizabeth I (’the Ditchley portrait') (2015) Available at: http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portraitLarge/mw02079/Queen-Elizabeth-I-The-Ditchley-portrait (Accessed: 18 October 2015).
• Siddons, S. (2009) Freckles 101. Available at: http://health.howstuffworks.com/skin-care/problems/beauty/freckles1.htm (Accessed: 9 December 2015).
• Symbolism in portraits of Elizabeth I (2015) Available at: http://www.rmg.co.uk/explore/sea-and-ships/in-depth/elizabeth/representing-the-queen/symbols-and-emblems-used-in-elizabeth-portraiture (Accessed: 18 October 2015).
• The painted face: Makeup in SCA period (no date) Available at: http://elizabethancostume.net/paintedface/index.html (Accessed: 6 November 2015).
• What causes freckles? (2015) Available at: http://wonderopolis.org/wonder/what-causes-freckles (Accessed: 9 December 2015).

Technical Folder Sign off

Below is a copy of my technical folder sign off sheet, saying that I have completed the work for the technical file. 

3 Brush Challenge

We were given the challenge of creating  colour look using only three brushes for the whole look. As Megan already had her base done for a previous look, I had to start from contouring so chose a fluffy rounded brush for this. I also chose a fluffy eye brush that I could use to apply all of the colours and blend with. The finally brush I chose was an angled brush for under the eye and the lips. I also used disposable mascara wands so that I could apply mascara. 

The three brushes I chose

I decided on my analogous design for this. I thought that this would be the easiest of my ideas to do with only three brushes. 

The products I used were:

- Illamasqua pressed powder

- Kryolan glam glow contour palette 

- Kryolan eyeshadow palette 

- Kryolan lip palette

- Natural Collections black mascara

I'm really proud of how this look turned out, I think that considering I only had three brushes I was able to do the look pretty similarly to my face chart. In order to make sure that no darker colours ended up where the lighter colours should be I applied the lightest colour first gradually getting darker and I think that I was able to get the different colours on the eye blended nicely together on the lid. I did find it difficult to get the lip shape even at first, so I had to keep looking back in the mirror to make sure that I was evening up the line enough. I think that if Megan hadn't had her base done beforehand I would've found it a lot more difficult to do the entire look with only three brushes. 

Final Evaluation

I have enjoyed this project, and I think that I have come a long way since the beginning of the year. As I have never studied makeup before I'm really impressed by what I have been able to achieve in this project. At the beginning I was very apprehensive about starting the course as I didn't think I would be as good as the others, even though we all have our strengths and weaknesses.

I'm really proud of the final result for Billie's makeup design. I think that we worked really well as a team and communicated our ideas for our designs well. She was also very enthusiastic about meeting up in our spare time to practise our designs so we could perfect the technique. If we had any problems with the design, which we did, for example; blocking out Billie's eyebrows and the tears. I think that by changing her design to adapt to my skill set it was really helpful of Billie and I was able to do a better job because of this. I really like the final images from the makeup assessment. I think that I did well on Billie's design, even though there are elements that I wish I had done better. I think that I got the placement of the tears right and they do look like she is crying, however I wish that I had gone over the tears again to make sure that they looked a bit darker. If I had done this it may have looked more fake rather than the authentic look Billie wanted in her design.

I think that Billie really did well with my design, especially as I had to change it numerous times. I think in the assessment she did all the elements of my design in the time and the final images look really good. One element that I particularly love about the final look is the very full on, brushed up eyebrows, I think it creates a nice contrast against the structure of the gold on the neck.

I think that if I was to do the project again, I would change my design slightly so that I would be able to have the veins as the ruff on my neck instead of having a base colour. I think that I should've looked at other colours to use, possibly exploring the option of using blue, so that it would still have the symbolism that I wanted, but would show up on the skin. 

Mark for my partner

If I was to give Billie a grade for the whole project I think I would place her in the Upper Second category, possibly a B1/B2. I would place her in this category because I thought she was professional in the assessment, and she showed good technical skills. I thought that her skills and knowledge at creating my design were really good, especially her ability to get the very small details that I wanted. 

I think that she was a very good communicator and worked very well with me as part of our make-up team- so in terms of this I would place her slightly higher up on the grading criteria, possibly into the first for this element, possibly a B1/A4.
I think that she did really well across the whole project, and worked hard on making both of our designs possible. I feel like we worked well as a team, and for our first project I think we have done very well. 

Self Evaluation of Makeup Assessment

I think that the makeup assessment was the best that I have ever done Billie's design, having Billie say this after the assessment also made me feel really happy about the final result. As we did so many practises of the look I felt quite confident with all the elements that Billie wanted me to do. I'm glad that Billie was very enthusiastic about meeting up in our spare time so I could practise the look, I think that if we hadn't done this then I would've felt more nervous about the assessment. 

The part that I'm most proud of is the tears, I think that I did the technique that Billie showed me well and made the tears look realistic. However afterwards I wish I had gone in and built up even more colour under the eye and added more water, just so the tears would've looked a bit darker. I think this could've had good and bad points if I had done it, although the tears would've been more defined they may have looked quite fake. 

In the assessment I did find it slightly difficult to get the heart-shape that Billie wanted for her lips and I did get slightly frustrated with myself. However I used my previous practises and experience to make sure that I kept looking back in the mirror to see whether both sides were becoming even. I'm glad I kept doing this as I think the final shape that I managed to get was quite even and symmetrical in the end.

All in all I'm quite proud of the final images of Billie's design. As I have never done a makeup course before this, I'm really proud of how far I have come since the beginning of the semester, and it has been very interesting to learn all these new skills and create something so intricate. 

Timed Assessment - In the Role of the Makeup Artist (Peer Assessment)

Billie was a very helpful designer, she clearly laid out every step of her design and explained all of the elements to me. This was really useful for me, especially as I found certain elements of her design very daunting at first.
Billie's initial design featured no eyebrows, which meant that I would have to block them out with; pritt stick, concealer and foundation. However as I have never done this technique before, I found it difficult to grasp at the beginning and after consulting with Sue who said that she preferred the look with brows, Billie made the decision to change her design. Instead of blocking out the brows she just wanted her brows to be lightened instead blocked out, which I found so much easier to do and I was glad that Billie made the decision to do this. I think that if she hadn't made the change I would've been even more nervous about the assessment and not confident in my ability to do the technique well.
One element that I did find difficult at the beginning was getting the tears right. In our first practise the tears did look slightly like sun beams, but Billie kept helping me with the technique to make sure that I could make them look as realistic as possible. Having Billie show me how exactly to get the look she wanted was extremely helpful and I think I was able to replicate it well in the assessment.

She also adapted and changed her design so that I would be able to do the elements well and in the time we had for the assessment. Furthermore she was eager for us to practise her design so that I could perfect all of the elements. 

Timed Assessment - In the Role of the Designer (Peer Assessment)

I think that Billie has done really well in this assessment and that we have worked very well as a collaborative team. 

Billie was always very receptive to my ideas for my design  and about finding the best way to make it come to life. She was also very enthusiastic about practising the design to make sure that she got all of the techniques perfected. Furthermore when I was finalising the design, she always offered her opinion as to what she thought would look good to improve it. 

During the assessment she was always double checking to make sure that she wasn't putting too much pressure on my face, and didn't rush any elements of the design. I think that she was able to complete the design well in the allotted time that we were given, and she was able to include all the elements. I was particularly impressed with was how even the line was on my jaw. I think that she did a really accurate and effective job of making sure that both sides were at the same height and connected well at the chin. I think that this is evident from the photograph.

One improvement I would suggest would be that if we had more time, I would have liked Billie to spend a bit more time on the veins on my neck. Although the veins do show up on the gold, I would have liked for her to have drawn more on and built up the colour even more to make sure that they really stood out from the gold.

Final Images- My Design

Below are my favourite final images from the Makeup Assessment. 

I really liked the image above, I think that it shows the character of my Lady in Waiting well and shows the main aspects that I wanted for my final photo. I did change some of my ideas for the final photo, originally I wanted to have a piece of hair falling over my face in the shape of a snake but when it came to the assessment I didn't think the photo needed it. Furthermore I also wanted to be holding a skull but again I didn't think that the photo needed it, and I wasn't able to source a skull that I really liked and looked good enough for the photo. 

Nails for my Lady in Waiting

For my Lady in Waiting, I wanted to paint my nails so that my nails wouldn't be bare in the final images. I also thought that by adding nail decals I could made the nails 3D and make them look a bit more interesting. Furthermore I thought that this would add another layer of elegance to the look, which I wanted my Lady in Waiting to have.

The products I used

For the nails I used:

- Sally Hansen Double Duty Base and Top Coat

- Ciate Nail Polish in 'Chalkboard'

- Ciate Nail Polish in 

- Ciate appliqué pearls

- Silver appliqué gems

First I applied an initial coat of the base coat to protect my nails. Then I applied two coats of the black polish to get a very opaque coating on the nail. Once this had dried I started to apply the pearls and gems to the nails, I used the base/top coat to apply them by dipping the bases into the product and then onto the nail. As my makeup design features gold, I wanted to add in a hint of gold to the nails without overpowering them, so I used the gold nail polish to lightly dot and colour over some of the gems. Finally I sealed the entire design with the top coat to make sure that everything was shiny and held in place. 

I'm so happy with how they turned out, I think they are something slightly different and hopefully will go with my makeup design well. Although they may not show up on camera, I'm really glad that I did the nails. I think that they do help add to the character and the high class lady that I want to portray and did turn out exactly how I imaged them to when I was planning the look for my Lady. I am slightly apprehensive about doing things now that I have the nails done though, as they do feel very delicate and I don't want any of the appliqués to fall off before the assessment. 

Final Images - Billie's Design

These are the final images that I took after the makeup assessment. I'm quite proud of these images and I think that it shows the 'grieving widow' well. I think as a final product the makeup, hair and accessories go well together to create the final image that Billie wanted to show. Initially Billie wanted to be holding a poison bottle, to add the subtle hint that she could've killed her husband, however when it came to the day of the assessment she decided against it as she didn't think it would look good. 

Final Design

I wanted to do one final face chart to show any final changes in my design.

In comparison to my previous face charts, I mixed my foundation colour that will be used in the assessment and applied it as the base instead of just using the Illamasqua skin base as I have done previously. I hadn't done this previously as my partner and I hadn't made a final decision on what will look best with my design until our last practise. I think that using the actual foundation colour looks a lot better on the face chart, as it makes it look more like a 'human' rather than just a face on a piece of paper as it had done previously. Furthermore the contouring blended in a lot better with the colour and didn't stand out as much. 

Another difference in this face chart is the freckles. In my tutorial with Sharon she said that the gold freckles didn't show up at all, so I made the decision to use 'Buck' from the Naked palette as a base colour for the freckle and then add the copper on the top. My partner and I are practising again before the final assessment so we will test this out to see whether it will show up on the skin better. I think that if it works it will look really nice as the freckles will show up but still have a slight hint of copper to them, which is what I wanted from my original design.

After my tutorial with Sharon, she also mentioned about bringing the gold up higher on the face so that it was more visible. I did a practise of this to see what it will look like on my face and I thought that it looked really good so I brought this into my design. I think that it looks a lot better on the face chart in comparison to my previous designs as it creates the 'ruff' effect that I wanted more than if the gold stopped below the jaw. I think the tricky elements of the design will be getting an even line for the end of the ruff so that it is symmetrical along with drawing on the veins so that they look realistic and not 'tree-like'. 

I think having an extra practise before the assessment will be of great help to me and my partner so we can go over the elements that have changed. Furthermore I think it will allow us to perfect and go over anything that Billie feels uncertain about and needs extra practise on. 

Jewellery for my Lady in Waiting

I went to Primark to source some jewellery that I could wear for my portrait as the Lady in Waiting.

For my Lady in Waiting I wanted her to have multiple rings on her ring finger to show her multiple marriages, that get progressively larger to also show her gain in wealth. The largest ring that I bought (far right) is also a different metal to the other rings- it is silver whilst the others are gold. I thought that this would create a contrast between her previous jewellery and her previous marriages. 

As I wanted my hair to be slicked and pulled back away from my face, I wanted to have some sort of decoration in my ears. I found some ear cuffs that I want to wear, one that is very elaborate and decorative and some others that are more understated. I thought that instead of having very elaborate ear cuffs in both ears, it would look better having some that are understated in the other ear as having an elaborate cuff in both ears would look very over the top. 

Practising the gold ruff

After my tutorial with Sharon, she said that the gold needed to be brought up higher on the face so that it will show up better on camera. I wanted to test this out on my face so I could show my partner my progress in my design, and get her opinion on whether it looks good.

I started with the Illamasqua liquid metal palette in the gold as it was much better than the Supra Colour, I painted it on with a brush to get quite a thick coat so that it was quite bold. I found it quiet difficult to get a very precise line so that the ruff looked symmetrical- I don't think that I did very well on making it even as one side is higher up than the other. I think it would've been easier to do a precise line on someone else rather than myself so that I can properly see from all angles whether it is even. I think that it looks a lot better than having the gold only come up to the chin, as it brings the design even more together so that it flows better on the face. 

One element I did find difficult was getting into all the crevices on my ears so that it was properly covered, as I couldn't see into my ears fully I could only see if the outer part and slightly inside was covered. I think it will be easier for my partner to cover the ears as she will be able to see any patches that need to be covered. 

One thing I didn't like about the application, is that in some lights it does look dirty and isn't as bold so I wanted to try whether adding copper would make the colour bolder so it will show up better on camera. The lack of colour however could be due to not applying enough coats of the product, so I will consult with my partner on what she thinks looks best. 

After applying the gold, I then applied a layer of the copper from the liquid metal palette on the top mixing it in with the gold so see what effect it would add to the gold. I actually prefer the effect that the copper gave the skin, I think that the colour is a lot brighter & bolder. I also think that this will show up a lot better when we take the final images under the studio lights.

I did ask my dad what he thought of the effect that the two colours gave to the skin, and he said that he preferred the gold to the copper. He said that he preferred it because it made him think about James Bond Goldfinger and how it looked very similar to the painted lady in the film. However I did ask my partner what she preferred and she said she liked the effect the copper and gold mixed gave to the skin, she said that it gave a nice tone to the skin. We had used this colour previously in our practise, but I wanted to test out other options to see what would be the best on my skin. 

I do agree with my partner and I think that I will continue to have the gold and copper mixed together, so that I get the best of both colours as well as a bolder effect for the neck. 

Makeup Assessment- reaction after the event

I feel so relieved having done the assessment! It went so quickly and smoothly, and was a lot more relaxed than I thought it would be. Once I got into the room and had everything set up I felt so at ease, and just wanted to get started with the makeup look. 

I think the actual application of the makeup was so much better than in our practises, I think I was able to put on a good base and buffed it in well so that the skin looked flawless. I also felt so much more confident in doing the delicate tears in Billie's design because we practised the technique so much, so I think I was able to get quite an 'authentic' look that was better than anything we had practised previously. 

I'm quite looking forward to the next assessment, so that I can see my design come to life with all the final elements like the hair and the props. I think that the final look of Billie's design was really effective with the veil and definitely showed the character of the grieving widow that she wanted to portray. 

Makeup Assessment- how I felt leading up to it

 I was very nervous the night before the assessment, so in order to calm myself down I packed and cleaned my kit early so that I could put it to one side and not think about until the morning. I think if I hadn't done this then I probably would've stressed about it for the rest of the night, which would've then impacted on how I felt the next morning. 

On the morning of the assessment I actually didn't feel that nervous, I was quite looking forward to doing the makeup look and getting Billie's design fully done. Billie also did check in on me in the morning to see how I was feeling about the assessment and whether I had everything that I needed to complete her look, which was very nice of her. I thought this reassured me a lot more to know that she did care about how I was feeling and that she would've calmed me down if I did start to panic. 

Reflection on my progress so far

I had a tutorial to discuss my progress and what I need to do from now on to improve my work.

Going into this tutorial I was quite worried about my blogs, whether I was on track and what I needed to do in order to get the result that I want from this assessment.

From the tutorial, Sharon told me that I need to put a lot more onto my blog so that I can show I have covered all areas of this assessment, and to also show that I am doing independent work as well as what is set out for us to do. I think now I need to review all of my blog posts, to see what I can add to any of them, as well as how I can show evidence of my own independent learning - even if it is a very short post. If I can do this then it will raise my blog post count, and show that I am pushing myself further.

I do however need to find ways to push myself even further out of my comfort zone, by not restricting myself and thinking that I can't do something. I think this will be really helpful for me, as I have never studied makeup previously, so I feel slightly reserved about pushing myself out of my comfort zone in case I make a fool of myself. 

From now on I will also show even more of my design work, the design process and makeup tests to show that I am doing work in my spare time as well as showing another level to the designing process not just the finished looks.

Progress on Billie's design

I wanted to practise Billie's design one last time before the makeup assessment, so that I could perfect the technique and iron out any kinks that we may come across. I feel so much better after doing this practise for her makeup, and it has definitely calmed me down a lot as I was very panicky beforehand. We did practise this like the actual assessment, so that the products were set up properly and we tried to do the entire look in 1 hour 10 minutes.

I wanted to photograph the set up so I could reinforce to myself
exactly what products I need.

 Billie wanted to change her design slightly so that I pale out her brows slightly so that they aren't as dark and then filled them in with a light brown eyeshadow. However after just doing the technique of lightening the eyebrows I thought that they looked light enough and didn't need filling in any more. Billie did agree with my thoughts and she will adapt her design to fit this. I felt a lot more confident with this in comparison to her original design, where we completely blocked out her eyebrows, which to me did also take a lot away from the face. 

The tears close up

I was so happy with how the tears came out in this practise, as when I had previously done them they did have the resemblance of sunbeams and looked rather fake. In order to get a more 'authentic' look to the tears, I built up a small amount of the black aqua colour underneath the eye in the place where I wanted the tear to fall, then I dropped water onto the area so that it would naturally run. I think this looked so much better in comparison to the previous practise as the running tears did take off some of the base - much like a normal tear would do. I then repeated the same step with the gold aqua colour, although it isn't as bold as the black, it added a subtle shimmer to the face and gives the black more depth as if the tears have been freshly cried. Billie also wanted me to add the gold aqua colour onto the water line in the places where the tears fell, just to brighten up the waterline slightly, and also give the shimmering effect to the eyes to again  make it look like she had just been crying. I think this was a really good idea of hers and it does add that extra depth to the eye to make it look more realistic rather than 'sunbeams' coming from the eyes. 

The final look

All in all it took about an hour to do the full makeup look as well as cleansing,toning and moisturising. Using a timer made me feel so much more at ease so that I know I am keeping to the correct timings and I have enough time to do the whole look properly. I did realise after we practised that I never covered Billie's hands, as she wants them to be included in the final portrait, so I will need to remember to do so in the final assessment so that her hands are the same shade as her face.

I feel so much more at ease now, I think this definitely helped me mentally prepare for the final assessment, so that I don't panic and work myself up beforehand as I have been known to do so in the past. I know that I will probably be very nervous anyway but having done the this extra practise, it just gives me extra reinforcement that I can do the task and complete Billie's design in the time and to her liking. 

Progression of design work

 After the feedback from the class, I adapted my design slightly taking into consideration what they thought I needed to change. 

The first face chart I did after the feedback

After the feedback, I wanted to do a face chart adding in elements that my classmates thought that I should use- one being bringing the veins up higher on the face and leaving out the black lip. I spent a long time on this face chart so I could perfect the look of the veins and make them look less like tree roots and more like veins. I was actually quite proud of the shape that I drew out, and I thought that it looked a lot more realistic than my previous design. I didn't like how high up the veins went, I thought that because of the way that I drew them, it started to resemble a beard which is what I really didn't want. However this face chart was drawn before I did the test of gold colours and found out that I can't have the veins in gold. So I did some more face charts taking this into consideration. 

The face charts I did after I found out I couldn't use gold as the veins

I used the Supra Colour on this face chart to see what it would look like, and I really didn't like it. As I was trying to take into consideration the feedback from the class, I decided to bring the gold up higher on the face to see whether it would create the same 'beard' effect as my previous design- which it did. Furthermore the white that I decided to use for the veins doesn't show up as well on the Supra Colour as it does on my next design. One changed element that I do really like from this face chart was the eyeshadow, as my class said that they wanted more product on the eyes so that they aren't lost with everything that is happening on the neck. I think that the brown eyeshadows really do this well, they define the eyes, bringing them out of the face more but not to an extent that they detract from the detail on the neck and also so that they aren't lost underneath the strong brows. 

 This is my favourite of all the designs that I've done. Even though my class didn't like the black lip, I really liked that element as my character for the project is a 'vixen' so I though that the black does give this effect. Furthermore I think that it goes really well with the understated eyes. For the neck I used the gold from the Illamasqua liquid metal palette, however as it didn't show up very well on the paper I mixed in a little bit of copper to make it a bit bolder. I think that the white veins showed up a lot better on this base and it will be really interesting to see whether I get the same effect on the skin.

All of my designs so far

I think it's quite interesting to see all of my designs, next to each other, because although they are different they still have elements that tie them in together and show they are a part of a set of designs. 

Testing out products for the freckles

As my original idea to use the gold Illamasqua from the Liquid Metal Palette didn't show up very well on camera, I wanted to test out what other products I could use that would do a better job. I chose the Urban Decay eyeshadow 'Buck' from the Naked Palette and the Copper from the Illamasqua Liquid Metal Palette.

Urban Decay

Urban Decay 'Buck'

I used a small pointed brush to apply the product across the nose and cheeks to get the typical shape of a freckle. I really liked how the freckles looked in real life, I thought they looked quite natural. One element that I thought looked good was the different strength of the colour in certain places, which is what natural freckles tend to have. However I think that they don't show up very well on the camera so I don't think this will be the best product to use in the assessment. 

Close Up of the Freckles

I think that the comparison between the close up and far away shot of my face shows that the eyeshadow does look good close up but not far away. 

The freckles seem to disappear far away.

Illamasqua

On top of the Urban Decay 'Buck' I applied the Illamasqua Copper. I think that this was the better option of the two that I had because it shows up so much more on camera. I think it does have a slightly harsher effect than the previous, but I think that with a flash and under studio lights it won't seem as harsh. I think that also because I will have a pale face in the assessment I will need the freckles to stand out, which the Urban Decay ones wouldn't do as well as these ones. 

Illamasqua on top of the Urban Decay

Furthermore I think that the use of the copper will relate back to the copper/gold mix that I will have applied to my neck in the assessment, and again the idea of high class with the use of the metallic colours. 

I think that now I have practised the freckles, I will be able to show my partner exactly what I want. I feel a lot happier now that I have done this, as I really want this element of the freckles to be visible in my final design especially because of the symbolic significance behind including them. I did feel slightly disheartened after seeing that the gold Liquid metal didn't show up on my skin very well, so I feel so much better knowing that I have done this practise and have confidence that they will show up in the final look. 

My design & First Practise with Billie

Products Used

- Illamasqua Skin Base

- Kryolan Foundation Palette

- Illamasqua Pressed Powder 

- MAC Cool Neutral Palette

- Naked Palette

- Maybelline Eyeliner

- Illamasqua Liquid Metal Palette

- Supra Colour Palette 

- Urban Decay Perversion Mascara Black

After trying out the gold veins on the neck previously and not liking the way they turned out, I changed my design slightly so that there is a gold base of Illamasqua liquid metal with white Supra Colour Veins drawn on the top. 

My Final Design

Below is the first practise with Billie of my final design. 

Billie's first practise of my design

I am really happy with how the base turned out, I think that it was the right amount of paled out skin and it went really well with the rest of the face. I am also so happy with how the brows turned out, I think they really frame the face well and add a contemporary edge to the look. Furthermore they add a messy edge to the whole look which is quite clean. 

I think that the line where the gold finishes looks so good and definitely replicates the 'ruff' look that I wanted to create through it. Furthermore I think that it also creates a contrast between the white face and the gold, making the face stand out a lot more. For the assessment the gold will branch further around the neck covering it all so that we aren't left with a line. I really like the colour that Billie mixed up, using both the gold and the copper from the Illamasqua Liquid Metal palette. I think that the copper creates more depth to the colour and actually makes the gold stand out even more. 

 I was slightly worried that the white wouldn't show up very well on the gold, but I think that it looks really good and almost adds a translucent effect to the skin. I think Billie needs to practise the veins and add in some capillaries to make it look even more realistic so we avoid the look of tree branches.

When showing my design, some people in the class didn't like the use of a black lip as they thought that it made it too 'Gothic'. However I really like the addition of the black lip, to me it adds to the character and also creates a contrast between the lighter colours. 

Billie did have a slight bit of trouble getting the shape of the lip, as it wasn't completely even. However she did say that she would practise to get the lip the right shape and make it completely even for the assessment. 

One element that I need to rethink is the freckles, as the gold Illamasqua from the Liquid Metal Palette doesn't show up very well on my skin and on camera. I think I need to consider other products that could also be used to create the freckles and always consider how the product will show up on camera. I'm glad that we came across this problem early on in the practise because it gives me time to experiment and make sure that I get the products right so this important element of my design will show up on the final image. 

Beginning Billie's Design

We went through each others design and explained each step that we had to go through in order to get the look that we want. 

Initially Billie was showing me how she blocked out her eyebrows, as I have never done this before I was very apprehensive about this and the technique, but when we were asking Sue about her design she suggested that we leave the brows in for the look. Sue did also show us a quick method to block out eyebrows, by using; pritt stick, pink coloured concealer and foundation. I blocked out one of the eyebrows and filled in the other to see what the face would look like with both options. The eyebrow definitely looked better to me as it framed the face, and although it did add a modern edge to the design, you didn't lose the Elizabethan style of the look. 

For the eyes I subtly defined the crease with the purple from the MAC palette so that you didn't lose the features in the finished look.

I had difficulty getting the right shape for the eyeshadow
due to the lack of eyebrow

Then I moved on to the main part of Billie's design- creating the tears running down her face. I did line roughly underneath the eye with the black Supra Colour to create the effect like she had smudged her make-up from crying. Then I used the black Aqua colour to add the shape of tears onto the previous black, which I then added a droplet of water of each to make it run down the face and look like she has actually been crying. Billie did also want me to drop the water into her eye to create actual tears running down her face, when I did it however it didn't run down the face as well as she had done in her practises. I think I will need to practise this myself and just get the proper technique and make sure that I get an authentic look. As the tears didn't turn out as well as Billie wanted, I drew on some droplets which I added water onto so that they would run more down the face.

After I got some more droplets onto the face I added gold in between some of the tears and in the inner corner. Billie did say afterwards that I need to put less on the tears as it did look very drawn on- which is not the look that she is after. 

For the last part of the eyes I added on mascara, which I built up to make it look clumpy so that it did give the effect of just finished crying- which is what the lashes do naturally. I did have some trouble with the application and I did get some mascara on the eyelid which I had to go and clean up afterwards with a cotton bud. I will have to work on my technique so that this doesn't happen in the assessment.

Finally I drew the heart shape for the lip, creating a gradient effect on the lip by using two colours. I was very proud of how the lips turned out, I learnt from a previous experience of doing lips to always look back in the mirror to make sure that the line is even on both sides.

I only did one eye as the other one didn't look right with the
lack of eyebrow.